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When curating a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate familiar award-winning names. Yet, situated near the top among these food giants is a modest salonu located in a distant part of north London.

An Unexpected Accolade

This compact Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. The accolade has left the proprietors totally shocked.

“I am completely surprised,” remarks the owner’s son, referring to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their humble restaurant earning such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

The compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a popular spot, has retained much of its former character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a moist, juicy texture.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Outranking the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for under £25, comparable tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

A Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at elite restaurants. “I am truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate beyond its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater importance of this gastronomic honour.